I’ve always had dry, thick, curly hair. I’m learning to embrace my natural texture now (it’s a process and a journey), but I can’t say that was the case five or six years ago. I used to heat-style my strands religiously, ironing them to perfection every week, but what I didn’t realize was that this was causing next-level damage to my hair and making it even more prone to breakage than it already was. I then learned what the term “high-porosity hair” meant and it dawned on me—I wasn’t doing myself any favors. Anyone who has high porosity hair knows. It can be a struggle if you don’t use the right products.
Don’t know what I’m talking about? Don’t worry, I’ll explain. But I will say that having it means your hair gets dry fast and isn’t the best at retaining moisture overall. If this sounds familiar, read on below. I’m breaking down what high porosity hair is and the best products to help it maintain its health.
For those of you who are unsure of whether you even have high-porosity hair or not, let NYC colorist James Corbett first give you the low-down on what exactly it is. “The cuticle [of the hair] is the outermost layer of the hair strand that has overlapping layers that protect and strengthen it,” he says. “Porosity refers to the hair strands’ ability to absorb and hold moisture. It functions similarly to shingles on a roof. Hair can naturally have low, medium, or high porosity, but excessive heat styling and chemical services can also play a major role in the pH [and porosity] of the hair.”
To add to this point, leading hair expert and stylist Michael Van Clarke explains that porous hair is a bit less “complete” in a sense. “It will have breaks, holes, and voids in the structure that allow elements to pass through,” he states. “Severely damaged hair is like a honeycomb—very porous and water struggles to stay attached so the hair always feels dry and color leeches out quickly so ends become faded.”
If your hair does struggle with this, don’t worry, they’ve also got a few tips to help care for it. “Avoid color processes that go over the same hair each time, whether with peroxide tints or weak peroxide wash toners,” says Van Clarke. “These are usually totally unnecessary and whilst hair is a tough material, it cannot withstand a dozen encounters with peroxide. Color will simply fade faster. You’ll also want to avoid silicone-laden products in general. These solve a problem today with a coat of varnish, yet dehydrate the hair further for tomorrow. Dehydration leads to weaker structure, breakdown in bonds, and more porosity.” Corbett also adds that high-porosity hair can easily absorb moisture, but doesn’t retain it so it’s important to use thick, ingredient-rich products that will help seal that moisture in. Below, you’ll find each expert’s picks for high-porosity hair along with a few of my own favorites.
“This is one of my favorite go-to products for my clients. The apple cider-based product helps to bring down the pH level of the hair, thereby closing the cuticle and protecting it. It makes the hair easier to detangle and helps prevent color from fading. I recommend it to all of my clients as all you need to do is spray on towel-dried hair and go about your normal hair routine.”—Corbett
“Incorporating a hair mask into your routine can help moisturize and strengthen hair that is high porosity. I like the Maria Nila Structure Repair Hair Masque. It does what it says—it repairs with algae extract and 100% vegan ingredients.”—Corbett
“K18 uses peptides to repair the hair. Hair looks better and healthier after one use. It is easier to detangle and only takes four minutes at the shampoo bowl.”—Corbett
“I often use this product on the ends of my client’s hair while their single process goes through the development process. With grapeseed and jojoba, this treatment is easily absorbed by high-porosity hair while moisturizing and nourishing the hair. Remember to use it on dry hair, as oil and water do not mix!”—Corbett
“Regular use of the 3 More Inches LifeSaver Prewash Treatment will keep the hair structure intact and closer to how it feels when fresh out at the roots. Full, shiny, flexible, and complete.”—Van Clarke
If you have coarse, high-porosity hair, Van Clarke recommends this moisturizing shampoo with cashmere proteins and gentle cleansers that won’t strip the hair. Microprotein amino acids in the formula drive deep into the hair shaft to repair and strengthen damaged locks.
Pair with the brand’s corresponding conditioner to seal in moisture with omega-rich plant oils. Together, this shampoo and conditioner help repair the structure of high-porosity hair that’s been chemically damaged so it retains more moisture.
“A lightweight conditioning product such as the Oribe Run-Through Detangling Primer also serves as a heat protectant which can help lessen damage caused by too much heat styling.”—Van Clarke
“Using a heatless curling set like those offered from Kitsch and Lilysilk in place of a curling iron helps, as heat styling can add to porosity over time.”—Van Clarke
I have high porosity hair myself and this vitamin- and antioxidant-rich oil from Rthvi is one of my favorite products for retaining strand health. It’s a great source of vitamin C, E, and other phyo-nutrients which promote circulation in the scalp. This helps facilitate hair growth and seals in more moisture to dry, thirsty strands.
If you have high-porosity curls, this deep conditioning is essential. I recently went off hormonal birth control and my hair has been incredibly dry since. I started using this mask twice a week and it’s been a total lifesaver. Rosehip oil, algae extract, and B vitamins in the formula improve hair texture, add softness, and repair dry, damaged hair.
This cult-loved bond repair treatment is great for high-porosity hair and can be used pre-shampoo to reduce breakage and seal up damaged strands. It’s made specifically for those with hair that has been chemically damaged or heat-damaged so it’s a great option if your hair is higher in porosity due to these factors.
Another great option for curly and coily hair types is Pattern’s Treatment Mask which is designed to provide more hydration, definition, and slip to curls. Curls are naturally a bit drier in nature, but if yours also happen to have a high porosity rate, this mask adds so much nourishment with ingredients like moringa-seed extract, hibiscus, and rice protein.
