What’s in a slip dress? Practically speaking, it’s a garment usually composed of silk or some other slinky material, but generally, the slip dress has come to represent one of fashion’s great wonders. A dress that looks great in its simplest form with minimal accessorizing and does the job from day to night. At most, when it’s cold you can throw on a little cardigan or a blazer, but a slip dress is truly perfect. When going to the office five days a week was a regular part of my reality, my protagonist (RIP) slip dress was the piece I reached for when I was sick of pants but wanted to look like I had my stuff together. It was black, made of 100% silk with thin straps, and designed with a bias cut for extra figure-framing ability (a bias means it’s sewn at an angle rather than straight on, which narrows at the waist). There wasn’t any dainty lace or flashy bedazzling on it, but back then, slip dresses were beloved for their utility rather than their artistic declaration. 

The slip dress has never really been a symbol of the subversive, which is probably why when Kate Moss wore an iridescent transparent slip dress by Liza Bruce in 1993 (sans a bra and just a pair of briefs), the moment seared through into the zeitgeist. It was shocking and defined Moss as a rebellious figure that challenges the industry status quo. Ironically, Moss’s take doesn’t feel out of place 30 years later when fashion has collectively accepted nudity with open arms. Since then, the slip dress also slowly reconfigured itself as the basic piece that defines ’90s minimalism.

Recently, there have been reiterations with tongue-in-cheek expressions like “Got Milkweed?” from Collina Strada and coquette graphics of pastel-colored cakes and bows from Nodress. On the edgy side, labels like ACNE Studios and Christopher Kane have taken to deconstructing slip dresses altogether with double-layering and bust-exposing cutouts. Needless to say, slip dresses are evolving—here are 30 delightfully fresh takes on the wardrobe staple.

Sleeper’s “nighttime” pieces have a twist: they also function as glamorous ready-to-wear garments.

A thick hem of black lace isn’t something you see every day.

Christopher Kane is a master of subverting traditional staples like this seductive slip dress.

The one shoulder is a welcomed twist here.

Rodarte’s recent collection is a love letter to the slip dress with variations on the staple including psychedelic prints and cutouts.

I love how this borders on lingerie.

This deserves a spot in your summer lineup.

A piece high on my personal wishlist.

It’s only a matter of time before every fashion girl wears this.

I bought this without thinking twice.

A touch of seduction and elegance.

Prada has got into the shift too.

It’s a splurge but worth every penny in my eyes.

From weddings to dinners, this dress does it all.

The pastel ombre is a nice touch.

There’s something so Parisian about this.

Big disco energy.

I love how this looks like distressed denim.

Pink and green is a combo that remains undefeated.

I dream about this dress every day.

Definitely expect the unexpected with Y/Project.

Always down for a little humor.

Now that’s a midriff cutout.

So 2000s.

Subversion doesn’t have to mean edgy, such as this pretty take which features an interesting trim around the bust.

Next: If Looking Chic Is Your Goal, Following These 10 Fashion People Is Step #1