Honestly, if you’re a person of color and have sensitive, acne-prone skin, then you probably also struggle with dark spots. I wish I could say that post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is a thing of the past for me, but it’s definitely not. I still struggle with it on a weekly basis.
Believe me, I know how frustrating it is to deal with. As soon as my older dark spots start to fade, I’ll have a particularly bad hormonal breakout and three or four new ones take their place. Ugh. If this is also your issue or you just have some stubborn sun or age spots you’d like to get rid of, fear not. I asked three dermatologists for all their advice in this department. They’ve selected options for every skin type and have a few pointers on how to treat dark spots quickly. Keep scrolling for all they had to share.
If you’re struggling with discoloration, there are a few key ingredients derms say work wonders. The best part is there is a wide variety of ingredients out there that can help, so there’s something for every skin type. Board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick, MD, says, “Key ingredients to look for in products for hyperpigmentation include antioxidants like vitamin C, hydroquinone, kojic acid, retinol, or other retinoids,” she shares. “Niacinamide, exfoliating acids like glycolic acid, licorice root extract, tranexamic acid, azelaic acid, sunscreen, and more.”
Board-certified dermatologist Azadeh Shirazi, MD, also says these ingredients are winners along with a few others. “Look for products formulated with natural skin lighteners such as kojic acid, arbutin, emblica, vitamin C, and niacinamide. Clinical ingredients such as retinols, azelaic acid, hydroquinone, glycolic acid, and tranexamic acid are also very effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and lightening dark spots.”
With so much conflicting information and so many products out there, it can be tough to know where a treatment for dark spots even belongs in your skincare routine. Derms are here to help in that department.
Board-certified dermatologist Lauren Penzi, MD, weighs in. “I recommend applying the dark spot corrector as the first step after cleansing,” she says. “Apply a thin layer to the dark spot/area. Then you can apply your serums, moisturizer, and SPF on top (in that order). At night, same thing—cleanser followed by dark spot corrector, followed by retinol/retinoid (if you use one) and then moisturizer.”
Shirazi also has some advice for those with sensitive skin. If you do have sensitive skin, you’ll want to proceed with caution when using dark spot correctors. She says, “They are best applied to dry skin to reduce the risk of irritation. Be cautious of the number of products you are using with dark-spot-correcting ingredients in order to avoid irritation, which in turn can lead to worsening hyperpigmentation. It’s best to use one to two products designed to lighten dark spots that are comprehensive, meaning there are multiple ingredients in a single product to maximize benefits and reduce side effects. The most important product [you can use] to fight hyperpigmentation is sunscreen. Oftentimes, people focus on using products designed to lighten hyperpigmentation without protecting their skin from factors that play a major role in stimulating melanin—UV rays and visible light.
“I love azelaic acid for dark spots for those with sensitive skin. It’s one of the gentlest ingredients to treat hyperpigmentation. It gets along well with others and also treats breakouts, which are often the cause of dark spots.”
Garshick also stresses that those with sensitive skin who are also dealing with acne should be careful not to overdo it in this department since breakouts are another leading cause of dark spots. “Some ingredients like retinoids and exfoliating acids may be harsh or irritating on the skin, so when treating hyperpigmentation, it is often best to incorporate one new product at a time,” she says. “Importantly, for those who may be susceptible to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, it is especially important to avoid irritating the skin when treating hyperpigmentation, as this can actually lead to more discoloration.”
Keep scrolling for all the best dark spot correctors that derms recommend.
Pros: Made to order to preserve freshness, customizable formula, contains multiple skin brighteners. Cons: Expensive. “What makes DermaBright Pads unique is its formulation using multiple natural skin brighteners and pigment lighteners such as kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin C, and emblica along with potent antioxidants like green tea polyphenols. These pads are freshly mixed at the time of your order and come as 60 treatment discs to sweep over the skin. You can also customize it with hydroquinone 2% over the counter and even higher strengths with a prescription. They are gentle yet effective. My patients really notice a huge difference in the quality of their skin.” — Shirazi. Customer Review: “I’ve been using Dermabright for over a year and I absolutely LOVE it! It cleans and exfoliates my skin while helping with uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation. I am fair-skinned and didn’t protect my skin in my 20’s from the sun. I am now paying the price at 45, but with this product plus a few laser procedures and microneedling, it has changed my skin and it’s amazing!”
Pros: Formulated with 10% azelaic acid and arbutin to even skin tone, helps clear breakouts and prevent future ones. Cons: Expensive . “Formulated with a blend of azelaic acid 10% and arbutin to even skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, smooth texture, reduce breakouts, and calm redness. Azelaic acid is a tyrosinase inhibitor that interferes with melanin production to prevent and treat hyperpigmentation, but it also clears pores of bacteria and organisms to fight against acne and rosacea, enhances cell turnover and gently exfoliates the skin, reduces inflammation and redness clinically shown to improve rosacea and acne.” — Shirazi. Customer Review: “I normally use the azelaic cream to protect breakouts and seeing this, I started using it and I love it. It brightens my skin and I love the feel. Leaves my skin hydrated with moisturizer and sunscreen of course on top. A must buy.”
Pros: Niacinamide, glycolic acid, and tranexamic acid to lift stubborn dark spots, peptides firm the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Cons: Takes a while to see results. “Containing a blend of key ingredients that help to brighten, this serum combines niacinamide, glycolic acid, and tranexamic acid to help visibly fade dark spots and even out the skin tone. It’s fragrance-free and can be used by all skin types.” — Garshick. Customer Review: “I actually use this serum under my make up. It is not sticky and allows for my foundation to set well. I just had one dark spot on my forehead and it appears less visible.”
Pros: Contains a trio of glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acid, great for those who can’t tolerate retinol, helps reverse sun damage and reduces fine lines. Cons: Expensive. “A trio of glycolic, salicylic, and lactic acids for those who can’t tolerate retinols to help reverse dark spots and fine lines from sun damage. Formulated with plant-derived raspberry extract, citric, and tartaric acid that work well together in fading hyperpigmentation.” — Shirazi. Customer Review: “This is the ONLY thing I’ve found in almost 10 years that actually cleared up my acne! I use a couple nights a week with my regular moisturizer and snail mucin and literally almost never have any breakouts! (Been using consistently for almost a year). I’ve seen a lot of comments about [the] price, but one 1.0 oz bottle lasted me like 9 months so I don’t think it’s bad at all!”
Pros: Contains a 1% concentration of oxyresveratrol to block the formation of excess pigment, brightening peptides even out skin tone. Cons: Expensive. “Designed to address hyperpigmentation and dark spots, this contains oxyresveratrol in a patented stabilization system. Oxyresveratrol has been found to be even more effective than kojic acid and works by blocking the tyrosinase enzyme, a key enzyme involved in pigmentation. Also formulated with brightening peptides, tetrapeptide-3, and acetyl-glycyl beta alanine, it works to brighten the skin and improve uneven skin tone.” — Garshick. Customer Review: “This product is amazing! I saw great results within two to three days of use! My wrinkles have disappeared, my complexion is very clear! The lines [on] my neck are almost completely gone! I highly recommend this product!”
Pros: Contains tranexamic acid, kojic acid, and niacinamide to brighten stubborn dark spots. Cons: Expensive. “This topical product contains tranexamic acid, an ingredient that has also been studied in an oral ingestible form and found to be helpful for the treatment of melasma. This is a great non-hydroquinone option to incorporate into a melasma skincare regimen.” — Garshick. Customer Review: “This is a remarkable product for erasing discoloration. I use this one in conjunction with Phloretin CF on flat-freckled sunspots that create a discoloration on the skin, and I must say within one week there was quite an improvement, and they don’t come back. I recommend following up on a sunscreen provided by SkinCeuticals to keep sunspots from coming back.”
Pros: Great for those with sensitive skin; addresses fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation without irritation; affordable. Cons: Takes longer to see results. “A great option for someone who cannot tolerate a retinoid, this serum contains bakuchiol to help address fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation without irritating the skin. It also contains the lingonberry stems cells, which protect the skin from oxidative stress and blue light, which can worsen hyperpigmentation.” — Garshick. Customer Review: “I really enjoyed this serum even though I just got it. I like the fact that it combats blue light stressor. It went on nicely under the rest of my skincare.”
Pros: Contains 4% niacinamide and brightening botanicals to lighten pigmentation, affordable. Cons: May not be suitable for extra-sensitive skin. “This has 4% niacinamide and skin-brightening botanicals that help to gently fade dark spots and prevent the formation of new ones.” — Penzi. Customer Review: “I am mid 30s and have deep scaring from years of acne as an adolescent and dark spots from more recent acne while pregnant. I have noticed a remarkable difference in diminishing both the scaring and dark spots in just a few [uses] of this product! I really wish I had taken pictures, because I have tried SO many products over the years and my old acne scars have never been this faded from anything else! My newer dark spots have faded considerably and I am confident they will continue to do so. It smells surprisingly fresh too, not chemical at all. This product is a great fit for me!”
Pros: Resorcinol and tranexamic acid help even skin tone, glycolic acid removes dead surface cells and speeds up skin cell turnover. Cons: Expensive. “An intensive serum that rapidly reduces the look of dark spots using a mix of glycolic acid, resorcinol, and tranexamic acid.” — Penzi. Customer Review: “I have tested countless vitamin C and spot-reducing serums as I’m prone to hyperpigmentation and I would say this one is the best I’ve tried. It helped with all of my acne scars, including ones I had been struggling with for months, although not rapidly. I started seeing results after ~8 weeks of use, so be consistent and patient. I apply diligently every morning before moisturizer and SPF.”
Pros: Helps fade stubborn dark spots without irritation. Cons: Expensive. “With kojic acid, niacinamide, alpha arbutin, diglucosyl gallic acid, and glycerin, this serum packs a punch for fading dark spots without irritating the skin.” — Penzi. Customer Review: “Love this serum!!! I have aging skin with sunspots and immediately saw some fading from use twice a day. I’m on my second cartridge of the serum and my spots are significantly lighter now! I can’t believe how fast it worked and I can’t be without this serum!”
Pros: Affordable; contains a combination of niacinamide, vitamin E, and pro-retinol to fade discoloration. Cons: Takes longer to see results. “This serum includes a combination of niacinamide, vitamin E, pro-retinol and hydroxyresorcinol and together helps to reduce the appearance of dark spots and discoloration. It can be used twice daily.” — Garshick. Customer Review: “I was still skeptical about just trying this system. I just decided to go for it and I am so glad I did! I noticed how smooth and bright my skin looks.”
