Hosiery is one of the world’s greatest innovations. Even ancient Egyptians knew the value of a good pair of socks—the civilization innovated the knit sock with a unique split-toe design all the way back in 300 AD. Socks were also a status symbol among Europe’s nobility dating back to the 12th century. Hundreds of years later, when hemlines started to rise, stockings energetically entered the picture. And with Dupont’s revolutionary introduction of nylon stockings in the 1940s, the marvel of hosiery became even more accessible; over 60 million pairs of nylon stockings were sold. In 1959, Allan E. Grant had the crazy idea of merging underpants and stockings all into one. He named it pantyhose, and now here we are in 2023, in a renaissance of the medley of hosiery the world has to offer. Tights, socks, and stockings have all been fundamental to the evolution of fashion. They have a deep pragmatic purpose, but they’re also a key part of creative expression. After periods of pro-bare legs on the runways, hosiery is staging a big comeback. From tights and stockings to socks (of all heights), and stocking-like things, hosiery has become a big part of the conversation. Designers like Miu Miu, Gucci, and Tory Burch have helped put them back on the map, centering pieces like fishnet tights and chunky ribbed socks within their collections, styling them in a diverse assortment of ways. For a look at just how impactful hosiery is shaping up to be this year, keep scrolling below.
For the perpetually cold, socks are more of a necessity than fashion, but with the designer endorsement of the accessory, why choose? When Miu Miu’s fall schoolgirl meets Wimbledon collection went down the runways last year, a bevy of ballerina flats and chunky ribbed socks soon followed. Miu Miu is one of those brands fashion people closely follow, so it was not a surprise that its sock-heavy styling made waves from celebrities to content creators and models. Outside of ballet-core, chunky socks are always a solid combo with an “ugly” sneaker.
New York-based designer Sandy Liang has a knack for making niche accessories pop. She’s done it with coquette-ish hair bows (they’re all the rage on Instagram), but it would also be fair to pinpoint Liang as a driving force behind the proliferation of knee-highs. The designer featured them in almost every look of her spring-summer show, pairing them with (again!) ballet flats and sporty sneakers. It’s interesting to see knee-highs float their way back into the mainstream fashion consciousness as they’re often left out in favor of tights or socks, but Liang (along with several other brands) are making a strong case for their return.
From the footless to the eccentrically wrapped, we’re living in the age of unconventional hosiery. Its ambiguity makes them hard to categorize with full confidence (is it tights? is it socks?) but maybe that’s the point. They’re so eye-catching that they become the clothing itself.
Long live fishnets! Easily one of the most prevalent items during fashion month, the netted tights made appearances at Alaia, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, and Gucci.
In 2023, we’re seeing the Skittles approach to tights—the key is to taste the rainbow. Seemingly no color is off-limits: shades like tangerine, lime green, and Pepto Bismol pink are getting plenty of play among the fashion crowd.
Hosiery trends come and go, but black tights are forever. They tend to go with everything, they’re easy to find. Everyone owns them, but not everyone knows quite what to do with them. First, grab a showstopping mini dress, or a leather trenchcoat, add a pair of revenge heels, and your sultry siren look is complete.
Red is shaping up to be a color of the season in more ways than one, hosiery included. While one way to do it is to take notes from Valentino, David Koma, and Gucci and opt for red pantyhose, red socks, and knee-highs are also perfectly acceptable. In case some sartorial inspiration is needed, Who What Wear editors have mastered how to style red hosiery.
Now we’ve entered the gloriously chaotic side of hosiery: options range from obscure prints to message tights and tights complete with cut-outs and bows. Here, they’re not just in a supporting role, they are the star. Cult brands Nodress and Tyt are two of the players expanding the creative potential of what hosiery can be—from its screen-printed pantyhose and coquette-inspired stockings.
While not as pervasive as black tights just yet, white tights are slowly but surely emerging as a hosiery trend to watch. White lace tights were a key look during Chanel’s fall-winter 2023 runway, while Miu Miu paired white fishnets with mini skirts for its fall show in Paris.
Rhinestones are quietly trending their way up again—thanks to a little help from the Y2K revival. While bedazzled tights are far from a novelty at Gucci, its appearance at the brand’s show last month means its time still hasn’t fizzled yet.
