There’s one major thing about my acne-prone skin that I didn’t understand until recently. Acne-prone skin is actually just sensitive skin. After hearing this from multiple skin experts, I finally started to understand my breakouts a lot better. First of all, I was using the wrong kind of “acne-fighters” for my skin type. Sometimes, those who have very sensitive skin don’t react well to high doses of acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid. Unfortunately, I had to learn the hard way, but I’m glad I’m armed with this knowledge now. It has completely transformed my skin and skincare routine for the better. Now, I focus on gentler ingredients that support the skin barrier and help with acne like niacinamide.
It’s also important to note that there are so many different factors that can effect your breakouts. You should definitely see a professional to help you nail down exactly what’s going on with your specific acne, but taking note of how your skin responds to certain ingredients is a good place to start. Dermatologists and a celebrity esthetician have more on the best serums to not only help you fight acne, but to help you beat post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation as well. After all, serums are one of the most important steps in any skincare routine. Keep reading—lots of bookmark-worthy knowledge ahead.
Board-certified dermatologist Lauren Penzi, MD says there are three key ingredients that work the best for acne-prone skin—salicylic acid, niacinamide, and retinol. “Salicylic acid is a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) that helps dissolve and break down the excess sebum and oil that gets trapped in pores,” she says. “Niacinamide is a fabulous multipurpose ingredient that helps decrease inflammation, decreases oil production, fades pigmentation, and reinforces the skin barrier. Retinol works to increase cell turnover, promotes new collagen synthesis, and keeps dirt and sebum out of pores.”
Additionally, board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick, MD says hydration is also key. “[Look for] ingredients that hydrate and support the skin barrier like hyaluronic acid and ceramides, niacinamide to help soothe and calm the skin, azelaic acid, and ingredients that help address pigmentation.” She also says there are a few things to avoid. “Regardless of which ingredients or serum used, it is important to avoid products that are comedogenic or clog the pores. Specifically certain oils (like coconut oil) can make acne worse as they can clog pores and contribute to more breakouts.”
If you’re also dealing with acne scars, skin experts want you to know a bit more information on them first. “There’s no magic wand for acne scars, typically we recommend a combination approach to remodeling textural acne scars, says celebrity esthetician Candace Marino. “Scars are the loss of collagen in the skin,. In order to rebuild the skin, we recommend a combination of lasers, peels, micro-needling, and radio frequency alongside skincare that includes growth factors.”
“Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation or erythema are often times called acne scars, however these are not scars, they are pigment or lingering redness caused by the inflammation or injury to the skin (if you pick). These are treated as pigmentation, and acids, retinols, and pigment inhibitors are the standard combination for treating these. While sunscreen is always recommended, with pigmented skin, it’s absolutely imperative, as the sun will only deepen the discoloration.”
Garshick also has a running list of ingredients that can help hyperpigmentation. “Other ingredients used to help hyperpigmentation that may also be helpful for those with acne-prone skin include azelaic acid, alpha hydroxy acids like glycolic or lactic acid, licorice root extract, and vitamin C. Azelaic acid is also particularly good for those who are dealing with acne while pregnant as it is considered pregnancy-safe.”
Take a peak below for each skin expert’s picks for acne.
“Niacinamide reduces the appearance of skin blemishes and signs of congestion, visibly brightens skin tone, while zinc regulates excess sebum activity.” —Penzi
“This formulation has a pure and gradual release of retinol that acts gradually on skin for efficacy and tolerance. It’s lightweight, hydrating texture visibly renews skin, reducing lines and wrinkles, and creating a more luminous look, in addition to fighting acne.” —Penzi
“A powerful yet soothing AHA and BHA acid serum that gently smooths, addresses the appearance of breakouts, and visibly refines pores for clear, hydrated skin.” —Penzi. “This contains a combination of salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid, and mandelic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid, as well as azelaic acid and succinic acid. Additionally, strawberry has natural exfoliating and antioxidant properties. Together it works to brighten the skin while reducing the appearance of pores.” —Garshick
“This serum provides powerful antioxidant protection to normal, oily, and combination skin types. It neutralizes damaging free radicals, improves cell turnover, and lightens signs of discoloration.” —Penzi
“A quick-absorbing, medicated dry oil to clear congested pores, treat and prevent acne, and smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles for clearer, smoother skin.” —Penzi
“This is phenomenal for acne. It’s a two-pump chamber serum featuring retinol on one side and benzoyl peroxide on the other—two anti-acne power houses.” —Marino
“This has retinol with AHAs and BHAs to penetrate the skin, clear, and clarify acne-prone and congested skin.” —Marino. “This serum packs a punch as it combines a retinoid with lactic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid, and salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid. Together, this combination works on overall tone and texture of the skin including fine lines and wrinkles while improving the appearance of pores and blemishes, making it a good option for those with oilier and blemish-prone skin as it also contains zinc PCA. Additionally, it contains niacinamide, sodium hyaluronate, and other nourishing ingredients to help moisturize the skin, so it won’t be left feeling dry or irritated.” —Garshick
“The IS Clinical Active Serum is a gentle resurfacing combination of lactic, salicylic, and glycolic acid which helps to remove dead cellular debris and prevent/ treat pore build up. The active ingredients are botanically derived making this appropriate and safe for pregnancy and breast-feeding. It’s a great retinol alternative. Added bonus, it’s super anti-aging and brightening, it will lift hyperpigmentation over time and improve the overall texture of the skin.” —Marino
“This azelaic acid serum works to gently exfoliate and can help to balance excess oil, working to reduce breakouts, while also gently exfoliating and improving the appearance of dark spots and blemishes. This creamy and lightweight emulsion absorbs easily and also contains niacinamide, so it is soothing and won’t leave the skin feeling irritated.” —Garshick
“This serum which can be used once or twice per day incorporates Vichy volcanic water, vitreoscilla ferment, and niacinamide, which together helps to boost repair of the skin barrier and soothes the skin, helping to fight the signs of stress. When used at night, it has been shown to reduce irritation associated with retinoid use.” —Garshick
“This splurge-worthy serum incorporates salicylic acid to help with oil and breakouts as well as dioic acid, glycolic acid, LHA, and citric acid to help exfoliate and helps to address breakouts and signs of aging.” —Garshick
“This uses tranexamic acid, bakuchiol, and niacinamide to target dark, discolored spots while preventing new discoloration.” —Penzi
“This employs resorcinol and tranexamic acid to help minimize the appearance of hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, as well as glycolic acid to remove dull surface cells and brighten skin’s appearance.” —Penzi
Celebrity esthetician Renée Rouleau has a few acne serums that both myself and WWW beauty director Erin Jahns love. But this fading gel works wonders. It’s a fast-acting scar serum that’s actually meant to be more of a spot treatment, but Jahns loves mixing a tiny bit with her moisturizer so it helps lighten and fade lingering red and dark spots left over post-breakouts. Plus, it has exfoliants like lactic acid and glycolic acid which help current bumps heal and deflate faster as well.
“This is an antioxidant serum packed with a copper tri-peptide complex which stimulates collagen production.” —Marino
“IS Clinical’s Brightening Complex is also a great option for pigment. It features acids and skin brighteners to exfoliate, lift pigment, and also has hydrating properties, making it a great option for minimalists who want to treat several conditions with one product.” —Marino
