Prediction: These 8 Trends From London Fashion Week Will Define 2024

It’s that time of year again—the air is getting chillier, pumpkin spice lattes are back, and people are considering unpacking their sweaters from storage. But for the style-conscious, only one thing consumes every thought in our brains: fashion month. Every September marks when editors, buyers, stylists, and style devotees worldwide scour the internet to see the latest street-style images, runway stills, and celebrity ensembles. Stumbling upon the latest trends, discovering new brands, or getting ample styling inspiration can be enthralling. But that doesn’t mean it doesn’t come without its own pitfalls—e.g., spending an almost egregious amount of scrolling trying to keep up with the latest trend reports from Copenhagen, Milan, Seoul, Paris, and so on. Luckily for you, we’ve got you covered. Not only did our team just run through the streets of Manhattan to report on New York Fashion Week. But, with London Fashion Week officially wrapped, we figured we’d do even more heavy lifting for you by reporting on the eight biggest trends from spring/summer 2024 collections. Sure, fall just started, but it’s never too early to learn about what’s coming down the pipeline (or across the pond)! Consider this your quick one-stop shop for everything you need to know.

In recent seasons, we’ve seen designers use styling as a way to revitalize staples on the runway—London’s S/S 24 collections were no exception. Across various runway shows, the emphasis on styling was most clearly encapsulated by a trend we’re dubbing “exposed button-downs,” which is a round-about way of describing an “unkempt” version of layering the traditional button-down. Instead of having a neatly tucked-in shirt, designers often embraced hemlines and materials that exposed the separate. For example, at Burberry, Daniel Lee styled an oversized shirt with a mini-skirt so that the tail-ends of the top would be peeking out underneath. Similarly, we saw a midi-shirt dress styled underneath a pleated denim skirt and matching blazer at Emilia Wickstead. And then, there was 16Arlington’s collection, in which oversized poplins were half-tucked into skirts made from sheer latex sequins, putting both items on full display. If there were ever a trend more suited to make the staple button-down feel fresh again, it’s this one.

Pro tip: Make this simple button-down stand out by pairing it with a sheer skirt.

You can also shop this shirt dress in eight other colorways.

A dark-brown button-down will always look luxurious in our books.

Just add layers and watch how this staple transforms.

Next to an emphasis on styling this season, we saw London’s design set to focus on what they do best…designing. It was all about the nitty-gritty details this season, and that’s no more apparent than with one particular trend: collarless suiting. While losing lapels may make staunch tailoring fanatics flip, the iterations on S/S 24 runways can make anyone a fan. Case in point: Tove’s collection, in which a softly structured silk suit in a burnt brown hue billowed down the runway sans lapels. If Tove’s show was all about using a lack of collars to convey softness, then SVRC’s collection was all about embracing soft power through reworked tailoring. Simply look at how a collarless blazer was made to feel more dynamic through sharp shoulder pads and leather in a bold plum hue. But possibly the best example of the delicate balance of soft yet structured tailoring could be found at 16Arlington. Marco Capaldo noted that the collection centered on “feminine and masculine dress codes meeting on the runway like strangers crossing paths on a city street or in surging traffic.” That was manifested most adeptly through a long-line charcoal gray coat with curved shoulder pads and a crewneck line with no lapels. Every iteration of this trend served as a reminder that some losses can be a gain—at least when it comes to suiting.

One of the benefits of opting for a blazer without a collar? You can show off your jewelry better.

Another benefit of collarless blazers is that they’re ideal for layering.

Everything about this blazer is on-trend—from the slight peplum-fit to the cocoon sleeves to its collarless neckline.

Don’t forget, that you can also adopt this trend in the form of tailored overcoats.

Another way designers played with tailoring this season? Through the wide adoption of voluminous dresses. Not to be mistaken for drop-waists or bubble hems, this trend is characterized by silhouettes that are exaggerated all in the hips through the usage of pointed bodices, tulle skirts, and pannier-style pleats. The variations of this silhouette ranged from playful to pragmatic—the latter being adeptly represented through a slate-gray leather corset dress with pannier pleats at 16Arlington. While more playful iterations could be found elsewhere, including in Richard Quinn’s S/S 24 show. Known for his penchant for extravagance, Quinn transformed the quintessentially British tea-length dress by adapting the silhouette to have a sultry deep v-neckline and waistline that darted out dramatically. If that weren’t enough, he added embellishments and a bow to emphasize the fit-and-flare of the frock. But it wasn’t just Quinn who emphasized gaiety through this dress style; so did Jonathan Anderson. As shared in JW Anderson’s show notes, the S/S 24 collection was all about: “Putting playfulness in pragmatism, and pragmatism in playfulness. Clothes meant to be used, misused, and toyed with…Proportions that shrink, curve, tilt, expand. Clarity and purposefulness, with a crafty bent.” That aim was evident through how Anderson transformed a simple cotton t-shirt dress by playing with proportions to create a skirt that curved outwards. Though some variations of the trend may feel like a far-cry from being practical for everyday life, you gotta give them points for being crafty.

Now, here’s an approachable way to embrace this trend!

You can also shop this dress in pink, black, white, and other colors.

Talk about dramatic.

Consider this the more low-key version of the voluminous silhouette—it still has the pannier-style pleats without all the extra puffiness.

It’s no secret that sheer fabrics have been trending for a while now, but it’s officially safe to say they’re here for the long haul. However, with London’s S/S 24 shows, we saw designers shift from creating pieces wrapped up in the shock value of a “naked dress” to something else entirely. Of course, sheer textiles are already inherently avant-garde, but British designers chose to up the ante by shifting the focus. It was less about this textile’s visible opacity and more about the malleability of this material, which was evident through how experimental designers were with draping. An example of this ingenuity was on full display in Supriya Lele’s spring collection—an icey blue sheer dress featured cutouts that were brought together again by a draped train reaching from the hips all the way across the shoulders. In a similar vein, we saw this material played with at Aaron’s runway show; an olive green chiffon material was bunched at the waist and then wrapped around the neck to create a blouse with a small train in the back. And then, there was r.l.e’s collection, which made transparent materials feel more approachable through a white sheer tank with a contrasting silk cowl draped over it that covered the bust. The designer’s dedication to draping in their S/S 24 collections made this textile riskier than before without having to compromise wearability.

The draped cowl neck on this blouse is divine.

Hold up, I’m going to need a minute to process this skirt—it’s too good.

Sublime. No notes.

The ruched draping on the waistline of this skirt is the perfect way to adopt this trend without having to show too much skin.

If you thought London’s designers were already getting liberal with the fabrics they used for draping, you might want to think again. With S/S 24 runway shows, we saw a total takeover of one specific trend: trains. While typically associated with eveningwear collections, British designers ignored the long history of trains in lieu of creating more approachable versions. By no means did these adaptations lose their full formality; rather, they went the distance to bridge the gap between ready-to-wear and eveningwear. For instance, at Roksanda, eggshell silk rolled down the body like water on a window seal—it made its fullest streak in the form of elongated sleeves that verge into the train territory. Roksanda’s version may have aired on the more formal side, but Tove’s was something you could imagine wearing on a special Thursday night. As tailored trousers were styled with a draped asymmetrical blouse with a train billowing behind it. And then, there was Simone Rocha’s show, which featured a black mini-dress adorned with massive bows and a long black train. Each was an example of how designers walked the fine-line between casual and formal perfectly to create this trend.

A moment of silence for the sleeve, please.

Pro tip: Make this trend more wearable in everyday life by opting for shorter versions of trains.

You can dress this skirt up or down based on your mood.

Leave it to David Koma to make the perfect dress.

Question for you: What staples embody London? Everyone might initially think of different items, but it’s safe to say that the trench coat is a quintessential part of every Londoner’s wardrobe. In part, that’s due to the country’s gloomier weather, but it also has to do with the fact that British designers are constantly revisiting this item—or at least they were with S/S 24 collections. Across the board, we not only saw trench coats play a pivotal part in runway collections, but designers often reworked them in ways that revitalized this staple. For instance, Anderson put his signature fun spin on the basic by creating a pistachio-green trench with a cinched-in waistband. But it wasn’t just at JW Anderson that we saw this outerwear given whimsical touches; it was also a part of Phoebe English’s collection. Upon further inspection, a seemingly simple white trench coat was far from minimal as it had an asymmetrical button-line and a rolled-up collar. And then, there was Daniel Lee’s second collection for Burberry, which paid homage to the atelier’s long history of creating trench coats with a twist. One coat from the Burberry S/S 24 collection notably featured a zipper across the waistline, allowing it to be styled multi-functionally. Though a seemingly small detail, it was the biggest indication of this staple’s ability to surprise and delight us (if done right).

Note the collar!

It doesn’t get more iconic than a Burberry trench coat.

Why buy multiple coats when you can invest in a multi-functional one?

Consider this your final proof that this staple is anything but stale.

Remember a few seasons back when clothing with wrap-around ties was all the rage? Well, they’re back… at least in the minds of London’s design set. But before you pass this trend off, you should know that versions of it were far from reductive. In fact, designers made the tie-up element feel elevated by using it to dramatize the form. You can see that on full display in Holzweiler’s collection—an open floral printed shirt was clasped together by crochet ribbon wrapped around the waist. In the case of Holzweiler, it was a styling hack used to add the perfect nipped-in waist to their shirt, but for Tove’s collection, it was less about functionality and more about reorienting the outfit’s focal point. A white bodysuit went from simple to show-shopping when the top’s dramatic keyhole cutout was further exaggerated by ties wrapped around the waist multiple times. But the best example of all had to be in Di Petsa’s S/S 24 collection. As designer Dimitra Petsa noted in the brand’s show notes, the collection focused on “How as we grow, the love we receive becomes more and more conditional so this collection explores that sense of loss and growth…. It represents different phases of the journey to self-love and the Nostos of unconditional love. A broken venus is being healed.” That intention is embodied through a white mini dress that looks like it’s been slashed to the point of falling off the body but is being “mended” by ties that wrap all around the bodice down to the lower thighs. With such a thoughtful approach to tie-up elements this season (both through styling and storytelling), it’s no surprise why we can see ourselves getting all-tied up in this trend again.

So chic.

Another way we saw this trend manifest was through knitwear with wrap-front tie closures.

Consider this your chance to finally secure the viral Jacquemus shirt that you never got around to buying.

A more minimal way to embrace this trend is through a top with a lace-up detail that doesn’t full wrap-around the body.

Lastly, we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention one last trend from London Fashion Week that was in full bloom on the S/S 24 runways: florals. Don’t be fooled; these aren’t your typical floral prints. Nor were they even as straightforward as the rose appliqués we’ve seen takeover in recent seasons. Designers made florals feel like they had grown by digging into new creative territories. One example of this was in Frolov’s collection, in which the creative director used floral appliqués to convey their Ukrainian heritage. In Frolov’s show notes, it’s mentioned that each flower drew inspiration from the artist Zhanna Kadyrov to create sculptural-like floral appliqués that adorn multiple pieces—including a chocolate-brown semi-sheer gown. The rich culture of Ukraine was front and center in Frolov’s collection, but they were not the only designers to draw inspiration from their roots. In David Koma’s notes, the British brand details that the inspiration for the S/S 24 collection was an image of “Young Elizabeth II, riding a Royal Enfield 250 motorcycle during her military service in the early ’40s.” The juxtaposition between royalty and “bad girl” energy was on full display in how a black tailored coat was styled with a high-slit maxi skirt to expose patent thigh-high boots and adorned with rose appliqués. Koma may have used English roses as the reference point, but Simone Rocha took the assignment literally. The brand’s runway show was punctuated with multiple sheer chiffon dresses, tops, and skirts that had pale pink roses stuffed inside them. While not pragmatic for long-term wear, it was, nonetheless, beautiful. From sculptural embellishments to real-life stems, the London-style set proved once again that only they can pull off making the world (and the runway) their rose garden.