When you think of your dream top, does a basic white tank top come to mind? For Tiktok user, peachesandcre3m, it was, so she did what most eager shoppers do on social media: film an unboxing. In an 8-second clip with the text “unboxing my dream top ut if one platform weren’t enough, the clip also found its way over to Twitter where the comments were just as controversial, “It’s like “I’m drinking my favorite drink and it’s just water”, ‘ said one user. Who knew a tank top could antagonize the internet?

Tank Air’s Studio Tank is 88% polyester and 12% spandex. There are no splashy logos like Loewe or Marine Serre’s fashion girl tanks. You may not also be able to discern whether it’s Hanes or The Gap, but those who own it don’t care and don’t seem to mind. “I remember seeing this tank top without realizing where it was from and thought ‘Wow, the fit on that is so good,’ says content creator, Aisha Farida. Living in New York City, Farida is a vodka distiller but also moonlights as an influencer documenting her daily outfits on Instagram and Tiktok. “I don’t take recommending a $70 tank top lightly, but I wear the tank tops on a weekly basis and am able to dress them up, dress them down, or wear them as an insulating layer when it’s very cold.”

Claire Robertson-Macleod is the power behind Tank Air. Born in Bangkok, the designer moved between London and Los Angeles before setting up Tank Air in downtown LA. The location puts the brand in close proximity to the abundance of artisans and garment resources that make the city (and downtown Los Angeles in particular) a mecca for budding fashion labels. Without much effort, Robertson-Macleod’s clothes have landed on celebrities like Kylie Jenner and Bella Hadid—the type of figures that can energize young people to sell things out. Of the tank’s divisive nature, Robertson-Macleod takes it in stride,”It definitely makes me a bit nervous reading or hearing people’s opinions about the Studio Tank as I’m quite a sensitive person lol. The tank was really a word-of-mouth thing—it’s a simple white camisole, it’s not eye-catching by any means but the effort we put into making it as close to perfect as possible has been recognized by those who have tried it and that’s really so gratifying,” she says. 

Thus far it’s in the right position to become a Gen-Z staple, but behind the simple tops and micro mini skirts is something deeper. A click over to the brand’s “about” section and you won’t find paragraphs of fluffy language describing its origin story. Instead lies the succinct phrase, “Quality clothing and ideas in service of the matriarchy.” Fitting for a woman who’s put much of her focus into centering the women of her life into the brand. “Tank Air was inspired by my mum and aunts, and I want the brand to inspire people in the same way,” Robertson-Macleod proclaims, “They were confident, effortless, but never without a sense of humor. I try to design for that woman.”

But back to the tank top—its internet mythology definitely piqued my intrigue. Could such a no-frills top be worth it to fork over $70? After all, The Row and Lemaire do demand $175 and $400 for plain cotton tops, respectively (and fashion people gladly oblige). In the grand scheme of things, Tank Air’s white tank top isn’t that egregious especially considering that it’s made locally, paying its workers fair wages. As Robertson-Macleod explains, the brand works directly with sewers in DTLA where they are paid “well above” minimum wage. Production is also limited to small runs to ensure quality, but overall its higher cost just comes down to simple economics. “The truth is, higher quality fabrics just cost a lot more per yard than lower quality options. We use a heavyweight, sueded jersey that has a soft feel but is also thick enough to provide support (you don’t have to wear a bra with it) and to provide full coverage (our white studio tanks are completely opaque),” she says. And the truth is the tank really does excel. As someone who buys white tanks in multiples, and owns probably no less than 10, the Studio Tank is unlike any currently in my collection. It almost feels akin to shapewear but without the tension headaches and feeling of perpetually sucking it in—the heavyweight fabric smooths and snatches you in and like Robertson-Macleod says, it also means that wearing nipple covers or a bra isn’t necessary. All of this to say it’s become the tank I reach for just for the increased ease: Thoughtful design really does matter!  But in the grand scheme of things, Tank Air is more than just one tank top. Although the tank is one of its bestsellers, the brand flows in new drops on a consistent basis, and they’re just as good (its bedazzled baby tees and bodysuits are virtually sold out). And following its focus on sustainable ethos, new releases come out in a drip rather than a flow, with new items dropped every few months as opposed to everyday like most fashion fast retailers. It speaks to how Robertson-Macleod envisions Tank Air as more than a moment of virality, it’s something for the long-haul. “We’ve been working on a children’s book to inspire young girls,” she says, “I’ve always wanted Tank Air to be more than just clothes but all for the same purpose.”